A few years ago, companies were excited about the potential of sustainable
materials. With oceans filling up with plastic,
beaches turning into landfills and marine life suffering, the world was eager
for change. And clarion calls such as the United Nations’/Ellen MacArthur
Foundation’s New Plastics Global
Commitment
galvanized governments and thousands of consumer goods giants to pledge to
drastically reduce virgin plastic packaging by 2025.
Today, many of those goals are being quietly rolled back, with plastic recycling
emerging as the dominant solution. But recycled plastic
still relies on fossil fuels — with their concerning environmental and health
impacts; and recycled plastics still produce
microplastics
— which have been found in human
blood,
lungs and even
placentas.
When brands focus more on plastic reuse over
alternative materials, they ignore the broader health risks that plastic
creates.
The time to act isn’t when waste reaches landfills and oceans — it’s when
materials are
selected.
So, why are companies rolling back their commitments? The answer lies in a
fragmented and underfunded supply chain that is struggling to scale.
Stagnant supply chains
As CEO & co-founder at erthos® — a
Toronto-based climate-tech startup that designs alternative, sustainable
materials that match the performance of traditional
plastics
— Nuha Siddiqui has spent the past
year meeting with over 40 large CPGs, plastic compounders, converters and
material producers to understand why sustainable materials are being
deprioritized and what it means for the industry.
“Fundamentally, the supply chain is not set up for success for a lot of these
materials,” Siddiqui explains to Sustainable Brands® (SB). “Unlike
plastics — which have a well-established, linear value chain — sustainable
materials face a fragmented landscape. That makes it difficult for brands to
know how to use these materials and how to scale them, leading to a prolonged
cycle of trial and error with little meaningful progress.”
She says the sustainability targets that once dominated headlines are now
quietly being pushed aside as brands realize the complexity of their supply
chains.
"Brands expected their supply chains to solve the problem without committing the
necessary time or resources. There was excitement and ambition; but goals were
unrealistic, and the scale of the challenge was misunderstood. Now we’ve woken
up to the fact that only 2 percent of the
2019 targets have been met.”
The ripple effect
“It only takes one large brand to roll back and influence everyone else in that
space,” Siddiqui notes. “When that happens, investments in material innovation
and infrastructure start shifting. The message sent to manufacturers, converters
and even investors is that sustainable materials are not an immediate priority.”
This shift has already affected industries including food and
beverage, personal
care and
textiles
— where alternative materials were once positioned as the future. Today, many
brands have pushed these solutions to the back of their roadmaps — delaying
their plans for adoption by another 5-10 years. But for material innovators,
this timeline is unsustainable; without immediate demand, many may not survive
long enough to see widespread adoption.
The catch-22
One of the biggest barriers to sustainable materials adoption is cost. Many
brands say they need sustainable materials to reach price parity with plastic
before they can commit. However, price parity can’t be achieved without scale
and scale isn’t possible without demand.
“Plastic price parity is still the top priority for brands. But we can’t achieve
it unless companies commit to investing in scale. The longer they wait, the
harder it will be,” exclaims Siddiqui.
There’s also a misalignment in how brands think about sustainable materials.
Instead of seeing them as a necessary long-term investment, they are trying to
justify them purely as a business case — separate from sustainability.
“More and more, we’re seeing companies focus on building a business case for
sustainable
materials
— often sidelining the sustainability itself. For these solutions to be
long-lasting, they need to make strong business sense for the brand. But right
now, given the broader macroeconomic climate, it’s a tough time for many brands
to make that commitment,” Siddiqui says.
“In addition to cost and performance, end-of-life infrastructure for
biomaterials is severely underdeveloped. Recycling systems have benefited from
decades of investment and continuous iteration, and even they’re still not
fully
effective
— still sitting at a 9% recycling rate
globally. Yet,
there’s an expectation that end-of-life solutions for biomaterials should be
perfectly operational before these materials even reach meaningful scale in the
market.”
Political landscape
The political and regulatory landscape also has an effect. While regions
including Europe and Asia are moving forward with bans and incentives,
the US has taken a more haphazard
approach
— leading many brands to hesitate. Collaboratives such as the US Plastics
Pact
are working toward systemic
change; but without clear
regulatory standards and industry-wide commitments, there is little urgency for
brands to take meaningful action in this space.
“The US isn’t representative of every market using these materials — we’re
seeing continued progress and investment in regions like Asia and Europe,”
Siddiqui says. “My hope is that we keep advancing and ensure sustainable
materials remain the right choice, regardless of political instability.”
But policy alone isn’t enough. Capital allocation plays a powerful role in
determining which materials scale; investor behavior and financial backing are
emerging as equally critical in enabling long-term adoption of bio-based
materials.
“Investors and financial
institutions are
the gatekeepers of sustainable materials innovation. Their capital, risk
appetite and market incentives can either accelerate the transition to bio-based
alternatives to fossil-based materials, or stall progress in favor of short-term
gains,” Dr Jen
Vanderhove,
Chief Operating Officer at BBIA (Bio-based and Biodegradable Industries
Association), tells SB. “At present, far too much
investment still flows into fossil-based [materials] — slowing the shift to more
innovative, sustainable bio-solutions. As custodians of the bio-based sector, we
must help investors realize that saving the planet isn’t just ethical — it’s
profitable. The future of finance lies in funding materials that work with
nature, not against it.”
The next five years
Despite these challenges, some brands recognize that waiting another decade
isn’t a viable strategy and continue to make strategic investments in
alternative materials.
“The targets that were set earlier did not fully take into consideration all the
complexities, and what gives me hope is that now we're seeing brands be a lot
more strategic with their approach on their roadmaps. They're not trying to just
find a one-size-fits-all type of material — they look at their geography, their
needs
and what's the right application,” Siddiqui says.
At the same time, sustainable material innovation continues pushing the
boundaries of what’s possible. Seaweed, for example, is emerging as a
viable, biodegradable alternative to oil-based plastic
films
and packaging
materials —
which can help advance brands’ circularity goals while they reduce waste.
This shift toward tailored, material-specific solutions is where erthos steps
in. The company facilitates adoption of sustainable materials through its
proprietary platform, ZYA™ — which combines
predictive modeling, material science and bio-based ingredients to streamline
sustainable material replacements and enable intelligent, cost-effective
optimization.
“We’re actively showing these materials can be viable and scalable — giving them
a whole new identity,” Siddiqui asserts. “We’re giving brands the visibility
they need in the supply chain to evaluate and accelerate sustainable materials.”
Siddiqui says the next five years will be make-or-break for scaling sustainable
materials. Immediate investment is critical; the current trajectory — where
brands continue to delay commitments, scale back investments and fall back on
recycled plastics — threatens to stall progress for another decade.
“Despite these challenges, we’re seeing bio-based materials scale in ways that
once seemed impossible — some are even outperforming plastic.” Siddiqui says.
“The past five years of innovation have been remarkable, proving that
sustainable materials are not just an alternative — they are the future. With
AI, data and strategic collaboration, we now have the tools to accelerate this
transition and make real change.”
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Scarlett Buckley is a London-based freelance sustainability writer with an MSc in Creative Arts & Mental Health.
Published Apr 11, 2025 8am EDT / 5am PDT / 1pm BST / 2pm CEST